2185 Kilometers later...

Important Statistics from Andrew and Trudee's Whirlwind Adventure around Estonia:
Number of Picnic Lunches: 7 (we made PBJs each day. Combined with fruit, juice and party cookies, we had a perfect meal once a day)
Number of Nights in Hostels: 6
Number of Hostles I'd visit again: 2
Number of Miles Driven: 1356mi (about the same distance from St.Louis to Salt Lake City)
Size of Estonia: Roughly the size of Vermont and New Hampshire combined...and some islands.
Number of perfect glares from old ladies:1 (she had been cultivating it for at least 90 yrs.)
Pounds of fish offered by local merchants: approx. 50lbs of nearly dead herring (if only we'd had a cooler, or no olfactory senses)
Number of priceless looks from little girls: 1 (practically untouched by the rigors of life)
Number of times we got the car stuck in the sand: 1 (a local hero we named "Tiit" saved us...We love you Tiit wherever you are)
Number of times the battery died: 1 (helped out by local punks in Viljandi)
Number of times Trudee blew her nose after getting sick in Narva (Day 2): countless
Number of times Andrew got locked in the bathroom: 1 (I got out...apparently)
Number of parking tickets: 1 (See previous blog about Falck...I hate them)
Where we lost the keys: between the slide and the swing (the most logical place to loose keys, obviously)
Number of times we pushed the car off of a ferry after the steering locked: 1
Number of amazing sunsets: 3 (on Saaremaa, the ferry to Saaremaa, and Parnu)
Number of islands visited: 3 (5 ferry rides)
Number of odd looks, pointings, and giggles recieved: countless (this happens when you have a neon green bilboard on the top of your car advertising a flight to Berlin...in Latvian)
Number of graves driven over: 1 (before we learned how to reverse the car)
Number of kilometers driven by Andrew: aproximatley 30 (thanks Trudee...she taught me how to drive a manual transmition...i'm really bad)
Number of Estonian songs Trudee and Andrew learned from the radio: 3
Number of times we got lost: Was there a point where we actually ever really knew where we were going? (we spent a lot of time on what might be loosely considered as roads)


This is Mabel. She was the third member of our rag-tag band of Estonia-Travelers. She's a foreigner too...from Latvia. We acquired her presence through a rental agency that cuts the price of your car in half if you agree to drive with a bilboard on top. There are sooo many people in Estonia thinking about flying to Berlin now. There would have been even more had we not gotten lost or almost lost in the middle of nowhere so many times. Notice how sandy Mabel is in this picture. This was taken before she got splashed with mud and driven through pine forests. For some reason, Mabel has this dillusional idea that she is an SUV all-terrain vehicle. Who were we (Trudee and I) to deny her this fantasy? Because of Mabel's fire, Trudee's lead foot, and my superb (though at times questionable) navigating talents, the three of us had the best (and the worst---see some of the above statistics) road trip ever! You really can't call any of it bad because luckily, the three of us are so easy going (well...Mabel can be bit fickle and testy at times) and flexible...there was A LOT of laughing. At this point, I can honestly say that I have seen more of Estonia than most Estonians have. It is a beautiful country full of exciting castles, majestic churches and cathedrals, peaceful beaches, gorgeous manor houses, lonely lighthouses, amazing sunsets, and a host of quirky yet wonderful things and places only found in this tiny country. Below are some of the highlights from the trip. Here is a link to Trudee's blog, her commentary is wonderful: http://www.trudeehill.blogspot.com/
If you want to see more pictures or learn about these ones, drop me a comment, or send me an e-mail. Enjoy!

I had a bad weekend...

Today I'm going to try and show you the other side of my adventure. Though Estonia is wonderful, and Spring (Kevad) has finally arrived, life, at times, can still be difficult. Last weekend (april 14-16) was bad. My shakras were out of sync, my karma had gone awry, my luck was shot.

One of the most challenging things about living in Estonia is that simple, everyday tasks suddenly become monumental affairs. As an example, I decided that I wanted to print out two of my new compositions for choir, photocopy them and then get them bound to look professional. In the US, I could print at home, and do the rest at Kinkos in about half an hour. Not so in Estonia. I do not have a printer here, only one person I know does. I thought I would go to the music academy. The national music academy of estonia could surely help me. After asking around for about an hour, I discovred that no one at the school had the software capability to even read my music files, and because I am not technically a student, I can't use their printers anyway. I ended up loading the program onto my friends computer and she printed out my material (1.5 days). Next, there is a print-copy place very close to my apartment. It's quite large and professional looking...kind of like a Kinkos. Alas, the woman helping me did not speak enough english, nor I enough estonian to explain to her what I wanted. She ended up getting frustrated with me. I even brought an example of exactly what I wanted done. When there is a language barrier, sometimes there is also disintrest. Two days latter, I tried my luck at another place. Luckily the woman spoke better english and was willing to help. I did not get exactly what I was looking for though. My pieces now look like a sciene-fair report, but at least they're printed and bound.

So my weekend:
Friday 10am: Arrive at the Music Academy to see that its closed (I've learned that for the academy, when there is a holiday close by, you never know what the school hours will be)
10:15am: Go to Kaubamajja (department store) in search of a cable to connect my computer to my television so that I can host a movie night...they suggest I try another place, but sell me a cable that "should work".
10:30am: Arrive at new store...closed. Their larger branch is open though>
10:45am: Go to coffee shop to waste a little time on computer. Internet doesn't work
11:30am: Get internet working and find location for larger branch store.
12:00pm: Lunch Date. They have a fish entree and thus their breath smells of fish for rest of encounter
2:30pm: Arrive at larger branch store with fish-breath date. We had to take a 20minute buss ride to get there.
3:15pm: 4 electronics stores and 3 cables latter, I depart for home to try my luck at connecting the computer to TV.
4:oopm: In frustration, call John to come over and help. We can't get it to work.
4:45pm: John and I decided to get food in Old Town. I will go back to Kaubamajja to try one more thing
5:15pm: Run into "the ex" on the street. Barely recieve recognition of my existence...feel like poo. Reach Kaubamajja, buy 4th cord.
6:00pm: Have tried everything possible and nothing works. Out a bunch of money. Cancell movie night. Go to Trudees to be consoled.

Saturday:
12:00pm: At insistence of friend, we go to a differnt mall in search of the correct cables for movie night. Nothing works.
1:30pm-2:30pm: Trying to make alternate plans for evening. Decided to host a small party before going out to go dancing
2:30-7:oopm: About 500 plans evolve and deteriorate. Decide that I'm just staying home alone.
7:15pm: Accidently shave off half of my left eyebrow, while cutting my own hair.8:00pm: Get invited to watch movies at a friends apartment. The return of movie night! His computer connects quite well and easily to his TV.

Sunday:
12:30pm: Decide to go with friends to Estonian Open Air Museum.
1:05pm: Missed the only bus to the museum. Next one comes in 2.5hrs.
1:40pm: Make my way by alternate trolley route to pick up friends and continue on our way.
2:oopm: At the stop for the museum, Falck (transportation and other minor security officials in Estonia) pulls up in a big red van, and about 6 officers storm our car. Before I have time to get my "safety-ticket" out and punch it, I get taken by one of the officers, a particularly scowling and brudish woman named "Svetlana".
2:00-2:10pm: I am questioned extensivaley by Falck in the back of their red van.
2:11pm: The van starts to drive away with me still inside. Am I going to jail! The van stops.
2:15pm: I am finally released with a 120kr fine (played the stupid foreigner bit very well) that I can pay online when I get home.
2:35pm: Open Air Museum. End of the story

Berginia!

Umm...for those of you wondering...that means Berlin and Virginia! Last week I flew to Berlin for 3 days to meet Virginia, my oldest friend in the world (since age 7). She then flew back to Estonia with me for 4 days. We had a wonderful time catching up on life, creating new memories, and exploring Europe. Making new friends is a fascinating and intense experience, however, there is nothing like reconnecting with an old buddy to give you a sense of history, depth of life, and sense of love. Being able to sit next to someone on the tram and not feel like you have to say something at each moment is a really cool feeling.

So Berlin...Germany was cool, cause I'm half-German by heritage (well..Prussian, technically). I've never been somewhere I physically fit in so well. Sorry mom, it looks like Dad's super-Schmidt genes won out this round. Berlin and Potsdam are both very clean and beautiful. Nothing too weird happend on the trip so I'll just post some of my favorite pictures and perhaps I'll have a more entertaining narrative next time :) Happy Spring!

P.S. It's FINALLY getting warmer and sunnier here in Estonia. I did not wear gloves, and I even took off my second layer today!
The Reichstag: Berlin's House of Government. Unfortunatley our meeting with Angela Merkel was cancelled ;)

(Left)Berlin's memorial to the slaughtered Jews in WWII. (Right) Inside the Reichstage Dome. Can you find me taking this picture in the glass?
































Schloss Scharlottenburg (Altes Schloss). This was a royal residence back in the day.

Neues Palais in Potsdam. Also was a royal residence.

Cecilienhof Palais in Potsdam.

(Left) Brewery in Potsdam. (Right) Sony Center in Berlin.
















If anyone would like so see the rest of the pictures, e-mail me. Take Care!

The worst week to visit Estonia...ever

That's Aaron. He's my bestfriend from Northwestern University, currently living and studying in London, UK. Like a true friend, he decided to visit me in Tallinn for part of his spring break. We also wanted to participate in Eesti Muusik Paevad (estonian music days), a festival for new Estonian music running March 24-31st. Unfortunatley, it happend to be the worst week of weather we've had in Estonian since I arrived. Technically, spring (kevad) is here. This means that it only snows once or twice a week, and rains the other five. The sky is perpetually gray, and so is everything else. A nice slush, mud, ice, and dirt goulash currently covers every outdoor surface. "Aaron, would you like to take a picture?". Despite the weather, we had a great time exploring Tallinn and catching up...and the music was ok too. For good reason, I do not have any more pictures to show. In fact, cameras were of so little use during his visit that Aaron ended up leaving his behind by accident. A warning to all of you wanting to someday visit Estonia...don't come at the end of winter/early spring...you'll be disappointed.

I think I actually miss the snow...at least it gave a nice white, soft glow to everything ;) You'd think that after almost 5 months of winter, spring would be welcome. Lets hope its short and summer begins halfway through April. This is wishful thinking. At least it's getting warmer...that's what I tell myself. I'll let you know when the green comes!

Halfway Home

It has come to my attention that the average American toiletry is meant to last approximatley two and one-half months. You may be asking, "Andrew...why on earth do you know this?". And I would reply: As of two days ago, I have officially been living in Estonia for 5 months. Halfway done!! Before moving here, I packed two of every toiletry I normally use into my suitcase. You do the math. So now, you maybe be wondering what I am using to brush my teeth or clean my face. It's all Estonian. It took five months, but I am fully immersed into the cleansing rituals of an Estonian...well the cleansing rituals of an American living in Estonia, using products found here that remind him of the ones he brought...hmm. This, however, is not the only milestone of my halfway point. At this crossroads in my adventure, I can honestly say that I have been finally accepted, for the most part, into the culture and society here. I will elaborate shortly, but first I would like to set up a slight contrast.

I recently watched a documentary on television about the Kombai people living in Papau-New Guinea. It was an hour length program that followed the story of a British man (presumably an anthropologist and not just some crazy guy) attempting to infiltrate the Kombai society. To begin the journey, local guides from a "civilized" area on the island take our hero into the dense jungle to meet the Kombai. They are greeted by three armed and hostile men. The scene is extremely intense, but after some calm negotiating (through gestures of course, the British man cannot speak Kombai) and an offer of tobacco, he is no longer considered a threat. During this discussion, the Kombai men refuse to even look at our man except for the ones with the bows, they have a deadly glare. Eventually, one community (3 men, 5 women, and a slew of children) agree to let him stay with them at their tree-house home. He stays with them for two weeks. Everyday, he participates in food gathering and hunting as well as other daily rituals. For the most part, our hero is trying to be as "Kombai" as possible. After a week they allow him to sleep up in the house with them instead of on the ground below. Next, he starts hunting without shoes as the other men have always done. Apparently they considered him more of a child because his body is soft and he is clumsy and unskilled in the ways of Kombai men. At one point, the community plays a practical joke on their visitor by convincing him to put worms in his ears to clean out the wax. Taking it all in stride, the British man continues to impress his hosts. These scored points earn him some communal smoking time, hand shakes, shared laughter and some dancing. The culmination of his cultural indoctrination and acceptance came in the last few days of his stay. The Kombai adorned our hero's head with a band, hung a necklace about his chest, and peirced his nose (a spike through the center). Real Kombai men undergo a ritual in which they invert their penis (part of it goes back inside the body), and wrap the remainder in a makeshift loin-cloth. Our brave man attempted this, but after almost passing out, decided to make do with just the loin-cloth. Nevertheless, upon the British man's departure the Kombai community threw him a large feast, centered around the killing of one of their prized domestic pigs (this is a great honor). He had been formaly accepted into the society and culture of his hosts. Many tears were shed upon our man's departure...but I digress.

No wait!...! It only took him two weeks! It's taken me five...and almost everyone here speaks English! I've even gone to sauna (see previous blog about Estonian Saunas). Well...I am not going to complain. Good things come to those who wait, and my five months have paid off. The presumedly "cold and reserved" Estonians have finally begun to open up (well at least most of them). I now have many conversations with my Estonian friends that go beyond "What are you doing here?", "Aren't you cold?", "How long will you be staying?", or "Why did you come to Estonia?". Our repore has progressed beyond naming our differences to discovering our similarities. I am also slowly but surely learning the language, which scores me some points with the natives.

Today I returned to Tallinn from a trip with my choir to Viljandi (S. Estonia). We competed in the National Chamber Choir Competition (and took first place in our division!). On this 2.5 day long excursion, I became much closer with people in the choir...even talking with some whom I hadn't yet spoken too (imagine being in a choir where some people don't even speak to you). A few even caught me by surprise empathizing that it must get overwhelming at times to be constantly surround by a language and culture you hardly know. At the dance the second night, I impressed some of the singers by jokingly sharing some stereotypical line-dancing steps I'd picked up in high school. This led to a "forced" public demonstration the following morning... infront of the entire choir. It was a little like, "watch the monkey dance...dance monkey dance". I suppose this is better than having worms in your ears :) After a somewhat humiliating display, amongst giggles and laughter, I took a grand bow upon which I recieved much applause and cheering. Like our British friend, I too had finally been accepted.

I cannot say that it's been easy. At times I want to throw in the towel. This experience is one of the most diffucult/challenging things I've ever endured (don't ask me to explain it in words), and at the same time one of the most rewarding. An uphill struggle everyday, I feel like at this half-way point I've been handed a walking stick to help me keep my balance. If at times this does not seem to be enough, I will try to remember that its too cold here to wear a loin-cloth, so at least I won't be asked to undergo the respective rituals... Here's to five more wonder-filled months!

Pics: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.papua-adventures.com/images/
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